London Fashion Week: Why the Future of Influence Must Be Responsible

London Fashion Week stands at a crossroads: celebrated for bold ideas yet challenged by fast fashion’s presence and underfunded sustainability efforts. In this opinion piece, Dr Brett Staniland and Kolsquare argue that the future of British fashion lies in pairing cultural creativity with responsible influence. By elevating creators who educate and inspire, and by using data to ensure authenticity, alignment and trust, UK brands and Fashion Week organisers can set a global standard for sustainable, values-driven fashion.

By Dr Brett Staniland, PhD (fashion editor, academic, activist, model) and Kolsquare, the influencer marketing platform

London has always been a cultural powerhouse. In fashion, it remains one of the most exciting and diverse capitals, but it also faces unique challenges in maintaining global influence and credibility.

At London Fashion Week, bold initiatives like adopting Copenhagen’s sustainability standards sit alongside the presence of fast fashion players. This contradiction sparks a crucial question: how do we ensure that every platformed brand reflects the industry’s long-term sustainability goals?

As Brett Staniland notes:

“There’s an opportunity right now. Consumers are tired of logos they can’t trust. They want craftsmanship and storytelling from honest brands with real values.”

By prioritising these qualities, London Fashion Week can strengthen its position as a leader in responsible fashion innovation.

Challenges Behind the Curtain

• Perception and investment: Unlike Milan or Paris, UK fashion has long been undervalued as an industry. This lack of recognition means underfunding and slower progress on environmental impact.
   
• Funding gaps: Many sustainability projects depend on large corporate sponsors, raising the risk of greenwashing.
   
• Misaligned pressures: Designers are asked to deliver more collections than ever with fewer resources, sometimes fuelling the ultra-fast fashion cycle.
   

The New Role of Creators

The “see-and-be-seen” influencer is over. A new wave of creators, cultural critics, sustainability educators, brand storytellers, are building loyal communities based on trust and substance, not just aesthetics.

Yet the industry often still rewards visibility over value. PR and algorithms prioritise agreeable content, not critique. Responsible influence offers a better path: collaborate with creators who educate, challenge and inspire, extending the impact of London Fashion Week far beyond the runway moment.

For UK brands, that means asking:

• Does this creator’s work reflect our values, not just our look?
   
• Are they transparent about partnerships?
   
• Do they challenge audiences to think, not just shop?
   

Data Meets Culture

At Kolsquare, we believe cultural insight must be paired with hard data. Marketers should evaluate creators not only on reach, but also on:

• Compliance Score: are they labelling partnerships correctly?
   
• Credibility Score: are audiences authentic, not inflated?
   
• Audience Demographics: does the community match the brand’s target market?
   
• Alignment: do their other brand associations reinforce or dilute your values?
   
• Trust: do they spark meaningful engagement and conversation, not just emojis?
   

Building a More Sustainable London Fashion Week

• Funding: support independence, not just corporate sponsorship.
   
• Representation: platform voices that contribute to lasting change, not just short-term hype.
   
• Creator–brand partnerships: prioritise purpose-driven collaborations that align values with visibility.
   

A Shared Call for Progress

London’s strength has always been boldness and diversity of ideas. By combining that spirit with transparency, sustainability and inclusivity, London Fashion Week can set a new global standard.

“When people think of British fashion, names like Vivienne Westwood and Lee McQueen come to mind — bold, brave, unapologetic creatives. We should champion those willing to use their voice for progress.” - Dr Brett Staniland

The future of fashion isn’t just about what’s on the runway, it’s about the stories we tell and the partnerships we choose.

To help UK fashion and beauty brands stress-test their creator strategies, we’ve developed the Ethical Influence Checklist - A free 10 point guide with Brett’s commentary and Kolsquare’s practical framework for responsible partnerships: https://www.kolsquare.com/en/free-ressources/ethical-influence-checklist-for-fashion-beauty-brands